Graduate's Clock

Patterns

Graduate's Clock

Graduates ClockA Perfect Gift for Those Heading Off for College or Their First Job

Take a careful look at the MATERIALS & TOOLS list for this project. You won’t see any wood glue listed because none is required. It’s not a mistake. It’s glueless!

A woodworking friend saw one of my graduation plaques and carefully inspected it. Noticing some splintering around the attachment points, he said he could show me a trick that would give me a clean and secure attachment. In just a few minutes, we had taken apart an unglued project, and then he showed me the secret: countersinking. With this simple technique, the two pieces fit together like a hand in a glove. I was amazed and completely sold on this method. Don’t throw away your woodworkers glue, but you won’t need it to make this commemorative plaque, presented just in time to congratulate your favorite graduate!

Step 1: Photocopy all the patterns. Put the base pattern aside for the moment. Spray the adhesive on the upright pattern back and apply it to the wood. I prefer #75 by 3M because it has the right amount of adhesion.

If you’re using a curly maple, like I did, the curl should go vertical on the board. If you’re using straight-grained wood, make sure the grain is going horizontal for the upright.

Step 2: Drill the 13/8″-diameter hole with the Forstner bit for either the clock or the photo frame. Caution: Do not drill all the way through the back of the upright. Drill all blade entry holes for all cutouts.

Step 3: Begin cutting all small openings across the bottom of the upright with the #2/0 reverse tooth blade. Once all the small ones are completed, finish the remaining inside cuts with the #2 reverse tooth blade.

Step 4: Complete the upright by cutting around the outside edges with a #5 reverse tooth blade. Be careful cutting the outside lines since the inside cuts have now weakened the strength of the wood. Sand the bottom of the upright until it is flat all the way across.

Step 5: Apply the base pattern to the wood. Again, if you’re using curly maple, make sure the curl goes across the 2 3/4″ measurement. If you’re using anything except curly maple, orient the pattern on the wood so the grain runs lengthwise on the board. Cut the base to actual size, 1/2″ x 2 3/4″ x 8 3/4″. Use the #5 reverse tooth blade to make this cut, or, to get a straighter cut, use a table saw.

Step 6: With the router and the roman ogee bit, rout each end of the base. By routing the ends first, it eliminates splintering on the front edge when you rout it. Rout across the front of the base only. The back edge is left as a straight edge.

Countersinking is an effective means of attaching parts without glue. From left to right you’ll see a countersink with a screw, an open countersink and a slightly countersunk hole used in this project.

Step 7: Drill two 3/32″- diameter holes in the base as shown on the drawing. Countersink the bottom of the base holes.

Countersinking is an effective means of attaching parts without glue. From left to right you'll see a countersink with a screw, an open countersink and a slightly countersunk hole used in this project.

Countersinking is an effective means of attaching parts without glue. From left to right you’ll see a countersink with a screw, an open countersink and a slightly countersunk hole used in this project.

Step 8: Drill pilot holes in the uprights using the 1/16″-diameter bit.

Step 9: Sand the upright and base with a progression of grits—220, 320 and 400.

Step 10: Slightly countersink holes on the top of the base and the holes in the upright. By slightly countersinking these holes, the upright will fit tight to the base without splintering. Attach the base to the upright with the two brass screws.

Step 11: Dye the base and the upright with the honey amber dye or color of choice. I found that the dye works best to show the grain of the curly maple. Then I applied two coats of lacquer. ALWAYS use lacquer in a well-ventilated area away from furnaces and water heaters. Before applying the final lacquer, sign the bottom of the base.

Step 12: Apply the felt feet, then stand back and admire your project.

Materials:

  • 1/2″ x 3/4″ x 91/2″ hardwood of choice (base)
  • 1/2″ x 4″ x 8 1/2″ hardwood of choice (upright)
  • Temporary bond spray adhesive
  • 2, #4 x 3/4″ long flathead brass screws
  • 1 3/8″-diameter clock or photo frame
  • Sandpaper, 220, 320 and 400 grits
  • Honey Amber TransTint Dye
  • Spray lacquer
  • Felt feet

Tools:

  • #2/0, #2 and #5 reverse tooth blades
  • Router and 11/16″-diameter roman ogee bit with 15/32″ cutter length
  • Drill with 1/32″- and 1/16″-diameter bits
  • 1 3/8″-diameter Forstner bit
  • 3/8″-diameter

Tip: Personalize It!

You can easily alter the clock project to allow room to add the grad’s name, school and graduation date. Simply extend the bottom edge of the upright by ½, add the necessary letters and numbers, and cut them out.

Attachments
Clock pattern